a rundown of my week in Shanghai
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Random musings on music and why I'm not more talented at it : )
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random musings about my life in Shanghai
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Well, after all that hoopla, the Olympics are over. Finally. Thank Buddha. Now things here in Chai-na can can get back to abnormal.
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Yesterday I posted a rant about how the Olympics ought to be depoliticized and treated as a game rather than a political spectacle. Of course this in itself is a naive aspiration, since (as one of the commenters to my post rightly remarked) by its very nature the Olympics plays into our atavistic nineteenth century nationalisms, with nations sending their best athletes to compete for a countable stack of medals, to be tallied up at the end like coins.
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“I wish we could go back to the Cold War so that the Olympics would be interesting.” Thus spakeAmerican actor John C. Reilly in jest during a mock interview with his co-star Will Ferrel for ESPN. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5ILh9X2wRA) But the statement got me thinking about how the Beijing Olympics is being treated and mistreated by the international media. First, there is the false promise, made by who knows who, that somehow the Olympics would CHANGE China. I mean, let’s be serious. This is a country of 1.3 billion people struggling over a very limited set of resources. 1.3 billion, foax. Think on that for a minute. If you took the entire population of America and subtracted it from China, YOU’D STILL HAVE A BILLION PEOPLE to feed, house, and clothe. And you think a two-week sporting event is going to change their lives???
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Summer has hit Shanghai with a vengeance, slamming us bugs into the pavement like a great big fly-swatter. Having lived in Aus for all those years I’d forgotten how jarring four extreme seasons can be. It’s just hot as hell out there today. And humid—like a great big bowl of steaming wonton soup. Thank Buddha for air conditioning, even though it’s a contributor to global warming, which is just making the problem worse in the long run. But we humans, we’re short-term thinkers. Looking out for our own comfort without regard for the generations to come.
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As everyone knows, Suzhou is famous for its Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) gardens, built by wealthy families as retreats from busy urban life and cultural centers for them to meet with their fellow elites (the best English-language academic study of these gardens is Craig Clunas, Fruitful Sites: Garden Culture in Ming Dynasty China). The name “garden” is a bit misleading. These large walled-in compounds were designed to be both living quarters for urban elites and miniature worlds, with complex yet aesthetically satisfying arrangements of mountains, rivers, oceans, and forests represented by well-placed rocks, ponds, creeks, and bonsai gardens. Thus, they represented the fantasy of man’s domination and control over the natural world, or if you prefer a more euphemistic term, man’s “harmony” with nature.
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This past weekend our friends Paul and Stephanie organized a trip to the Zhoushan islands off the Zhejiang coast (see this nice map).
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This morning we were surprised to find blue skies instead of the usual rain. My mother and I took advantage of the weather and headed out for a walk. Our mission was to find the former address of an acquaintance of hers in the Boston area. Her friend, a 70-something year old man named Rolf Wetzell, grew up in Shanghai. He left in the late 1940s on the eve of the revolution, and never returned. He wanted my mother to find his old house, which he said was located at lane 189 on Kinnear Road.
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A review of a doc film on photographer Greg Girard and his work photographing Shanghai's disappearing neighborhoods
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In an effort to cash in on the Olympics, a flurry of books has been published recently on the topic of Beijing. These include several histories of the city, such as Geremie Barme's _The Forbidden City_ and Lillian Li et al, Beijing: From Imperial Capital to Olympic City as well as books by Stephen Haw and Jasper Becker, all of which have come out in the past year or so. It seems that everyone is rushing to the publisher to get their Beijing book out before the Olympics hit in an effort to boost sales. This is not necessarily a bad thing, but it does have the potential pitfall of creating a bunch of hastily written thinkpieces.
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James Farrer is a sociologist at Sophia University in Tokyo. Author of the book _Opening Up: Youth Sex Culture and Market Reform in Shanghai_ (Chicago, 2002) he specializes in the study of modern and contemporary sexuality in China and Japan. For several years, James and I have been collaborating on various projects surrounding nightlife cultures in Shanghai and Tokyo (see my previous blogs on Dr. Sex Life and on our special nightlife issue). I've been meaning to post an interview with him about his various research projects for a while now. Finally got round to it. Here are my questions to James and his responses:
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Halfway through the concert, I persuaded the group to head out to Moganshan Lu, the arts district along Suzhou Creek, where the STD party/rock concert was going full blast. We arrived there just in time to see the full show of Re-TROS, one of Beijing’s most acclaimed punk rock acts.
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Somehow I managed to get the boys out of the restaurant and into a taxi without any violence and we headed over to Windows Underground. We got there in time to see Dan Shapiro’s band Rogue Transmission.
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Last night Mency and I met my friend Mo Jin, who is back in town for the weekend, and together headed over to the new Windows Underground. We arrived at 11 pm in the middle of the Secondhand Roses (ershou meigui) concert. This Beijing-based band delivers a powerful mix of northern-style folk rock enhanced with traditional Chinese instruments. The male lead singer has a campy singing and operatic performance style, and is known to dress up in women’s costumes. They looked like regular rockers last night though, and like my friend Dan Shapiro (Handlebar Dan, though he shaved his whiskers for the summer) said, these guys don’t need a gimmick—they’re solid.
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Yet another week gone by, with me getting older, fatter, and none the wiser. Isn’t that just life? The only consolation I have is to live vicariously through younger folk like my three-year old daughter Sarah. In celebration of Children’s Day, we took her out to brunch at the Paulaner Brauhaus with our friend LK and his wife Ranran and daughter Samantha. The heavy German fare now sits in my intestines like a lead weight. So much for losing a few pounds. Oh well, there’s always tomorrow.
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For some years now, ocean scientists and many other concerned citizens around the world have been aware of the danger that shark finning is bringing to the world. Sharks are being consumed by the millions, just for their fins. After being brutally definned, their bodies are tossed back into the ocean to die. This is going on in support of a multi-billion dollar industry surrounding the purported benefit of shark fins for human health—a completely unsubstantiated belief. China is especially guilty of contributing to the extinction of sharks worldwide. Here in China, shark fin soup is considered a delicacy, and people pay a premium to consume it.
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We are pleased to announce that our collective research project on
nightlife in contemporary China, after some trials and tribulations,
has finally been published. Below are the article titles. This issue
of _China: An International Journal (CIJ)_ is now available online and
may be accessed through university library websites. I uploaded my own essay onto this site and it may be downloaded by clicking on the link below.
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